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Every year tens of thousands of pilgrims visit one of the 2,000-odd temples along the banks of the Ganges at Varanasi and bathe in the river. One of the seven sacred Hindu pilgrim sites in India, Varanasi is also one of the world’s oldest cities, where Lord Shiva is said to have made his home since the dawn of creation. Mentioned both in the Ramayana and the Mahabharata, Varanasi is to many the religious capital of India.

Varanasi takes its name from its location between the Varuna and Asi rivers which join the Ganges as it makes a broad curve north. The Hindus call the city Kashi, the city of light-after the golden luminescence of the temples, ghats and ashrams in the early morning. The name Benares was used by the British, and before them the Mughals called the town Muhammadabad for a short time. To this day Varanasi is a center of learning, especially for Sanskrit scholars.

Varanasi tour is one of the most popular tourist destinations in India, and is thus frequently mobbed by long weekends of explorers making their way to learn more about one of the India’s sites of cultural interest. Tourists visiting Varanasi also make a trip to places like Bodh Gaya (Lord Buddha received enlighten here), Taj Mahal, Sarnath and even Sikkim. Students of History too have also been known to frequent Varanasi as they attempt to widen their scope of learning. There are those who come to this holy city to participate in spiritually enriching activities, like the yoga and meditation, Hindu ceremonies and pujas, including cremation on the Ghats and visiting some of the other sacred places in and around the city.

The locals of India have grown to develop their lives along the ways of the Varanasi. It is advisable to try and travel around the Varanasi Ghats individually so as to learn your way around them. The Ghats are surrounded by some great hotels, restaurants, cafes, book and music cafes where you can take a rest, or interact with the locals. Just close by there are stalls where you can buy colorful accessories like chains, religious stones, idols and books. One of the things you cannot afford to miss while in India is a boat ride across the River Ganga. It usually takes around one hour, and is an out-of-the-world experience, especially during the morning hours. You can also take a stroll along Ghats of Varanasi, and witness the Hindu enthusiasts taking their holy bath in the river, while offering water to the Sun god, Surya.

After a beautiful drive through the terraced landscape, river valleys, traditional Bhutanese architecture and chortens (domed monument) we reach Simtokha Dzong, the oldest Dzong in Bhutan (built in 1629). From here, the road winds through pine forests and small villages, and passes by more chortens and prayer flags before heading up to Dochula Pass (10,000′), the first of four passes of the trip. The prayer flags on mountain slopes, bridges and high passes, transmit prayers to the Gods and keep up a constant communication with the heavens.

For the next two hours, the road slowly descends into the lowlands of Punakha valley. In the village of Lobesa, we see Chimmi Lhakhang, a temple dedicated to Drukpa Kuenley, a favorite saint of the Bhutanese, is known affectionately as “the Divine Madman”. The temple is on a hillside in the middle of rice fields and has become a pilgrimage site for childless couples.

In the morning we witness the Punakha Dromchoe at Punakha Dzong, the “Palace of Great Happiness” built in 1647 by Shabdrung Nawang Namgyel, the saint who unified Bhutan.

Bhutan had in the past defended its sovereignty through ways of skillful mediation, war, and other means of defense strategy. Punakha Dromchoe depicts one of such victories, which have resulted in what Bhutan is today.

The Punakha Dromchoe festival take place in the first month of the lunar year; next festival date is February 18-22, 2010. Other prominent festivals of the first half of 2010 are Punakha Tshechu – February 23-25, Chorten Kora – February 28-March 15, Gomkora – March 23-25, Paro Tshechu – March 26-30, and Ura Tshechu – April 24-28.

The Dromchoe festival ends with ‘Serda’, a magnificent procession which re-enacts an episode of the war against the Tibetan invading troops in the 17th century.

The Pazap (medieval Bhutanese army) in red uniforms rush out of the dzong, flourishing swords at the head steep wooden stairs at the entrance. With the deafening sound of firecrackers, the Pazaps leap into horsebacks to ride into battle.

The Serda Berkhor procession at the end of the festivities is led by the Je Khenpo (Chief Abbot of Bhutan) who comes out of the dzong amidst great fanfare, led by troops and Pachham dancers, to pray on the banks of the river and to proclaim the victory of the Bhutanese forces.

Wondering the narrow alleyways of Erhai lakeside villages near Dali in Yunnan Province of southwestern China one can get lucky and stumble upon a genuine Bai village temple fest. Tourists who prefer to keep to Dali guidebooks most recommended sites seldom visit the smallest of these villages. Yet it is here at a typical village temple that a village folk gathering can be found worshiping. There are no guests, no outside visitors and the immensely enjoyable spectacle usually lasts all day. The participants, including the orchestra members are the villagers themselves. All of them take part; they are who live in the small village, sharing in the worship and the eventual feast. Both men and women participate, the women first in their own temple, and then together with men they light the auspicious incense in the main temple. After worship the participants gather to enjoy some of the foods the women cooked and offered as temple offerings to the gods pig head, rooster, bowl of spicy fish, plates of colored noodles, cups of rice, fruits, chilly and vegetables, all staple parts of their diet. This gathering and communal temple worship and meal was preceded by five days of abstinence from eating meat. The music and chants are mesmerizing, downright hypnotic. All villagers sport smiles and deep-rooted joy in participating. Their simple, authentic local celebration exudes in genuine display of friendship toward one another. The following video is Part 2 of 6.

Backdrop of Rangdum Monastery on a small hill in Suru Valley

The Mulbekh Gompa, about three quarters of the way from Leh to Kargil, marks the end of the Buddhist Ladakh and the beginning of its Muslim parts. The Muslim culture here as in Kargil and from here on toward the alpine valleys of Kashmir as well as the first third of the way toward Zanskar, leading through the Suru Valley, is related to Baltistan, the Pakistani region further west of the border with India formed here by the Indus River. Already in Khalsi, a scruffy junction town half way between Leh and Kargil, one can catch a glimpse of the Muslim presence as windows of some of the local shops are decorated with pictures of Ayatollah Khomeini, reminding one that regions further west are mostly Shiite Muslim rather than Buddhist.

Traversing the Pensi La

Suru Valley constitutes the main supply route for the remote Zanskar and the journey is stunning though tiring and can be difficult. It takes some 12 hours to traverse the distance between Kargil and Padum in Zanskar by a 4-wheel drive, and the difficult part is crossing the Pensi La, often shrouded in clouds and subject to blizzards.

The courtyard in front of the main temple of Rangdum Gompa

The first stage of the Suru Valley road past Kargil leads through Muslim villages. The road is relatively well maintained, as Kargil market is still too close and a lifeblood of these villages. Past the scenic Muslim village of Panikhar the road begins to deteriorate. Once the spires of the last village mosque fade away the valley narrows and high mountain ridge of the

Prayer flags on rooftop of Rangdum Monastery

Himalaya that separates Suru valley from Kashmir to the south becomes more prominent. Not far past Panikhar first glacier oozes down a side valley onto a valley floor and the twin peaks of Nun (7135m / 23,400ft) and Kun (7087 / 23,242) come to view.

A spectacular scenery continues on to the Rangdum Monastery that is sat atop of a small hill in a wide-open valley framed by jagged snow-capped peaks. Impressive multi-color layers of strata that lie one upon another, laid down by natural forces at 45-degree angle, form a sheer backdrop of the Rangdum Gompa. The

Memorial to the three Rangum monks killed in July, 2000

sense of the remote and desolate is omnipresent and awe-inspiring. Though a small hamlet of a few houses dots the flat plain, revealing there is life beyond the monastic edifice, the gompa’s solitude and eerie desolation is downright unnerving, definitely at best an outpost for search of spiritual wisdom and quiet meditation. There are some three dozen monks in residence and the their confines are truly Spartan. As the monks retreat into their quarters and the freezing wind howls over the ramparts of the monastic walls, a sense of destitute is as strong as the ambiance is peaceful. So much more it is shocking to imagine that in July, 2000, three Rangdum monks were brutally killed by a small band of Muslim militants (who were never found) for no apparent reason though it’s widely believed the killing was on purpose instigated by Kashmir separatists sat to extend their terrorist activities amidst the remote parts of Jammu-Kashmir of which Ladakh is a part.

Drung Drang Glacier as seen from top of Pensi La

After Rangdum the Suru Valley road starts climbing toward the summit of Pensi La (4450m / 14,400ft), the gateway to Zanskar. Though the high altitude of the pass is prone to sudden storms and heavy snowfall can block the road even in mid summer for days, on even a marginally fair day the views and vistas from the top of the path are simply stunning. When the clouds part above the snow-capped peaks of the Himalaya the long tongue of the Drung-Drang Glacier reveals itself in all its grandeur as it winds down from the high mountain peaks. One can gape in awe at the site for hours if it were not for the piercing chill of the wind that prompts one to proceed toward Zanskar. From top of Pensi La the road starts a long gradual descent toward Padum plain and the heart of Zanskar, and the impression that one truly entered one of the most remote regions of India becomes complete.