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K2, the second highest peak on the planet (28,268’) is a lonely place right now. It straddles the border between Pakistan and the Xinjian Uygur Autonomous Region in China, both fraught with riots, ethnic upheavals and terrorist attacks. Nonetheless it’s as beautiful from China as it was from Pakistan where I first saw it in ’98. I and my team of three Kyrgyz, one Uygur and three camels experienced bluebird conditions in base camp and not another soul the entire time. Our little family–Shiite, Sunni and kara bura (black camels)–celebrated the end of Ramadan, the Lunar New Year and the 60th Anniversary of Communism in China. Mostly we shared a common goal: to reach K2. A good time was had by all.Visit author’s website: Ruth Anne Kocour.

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Fitz Roy

How best to visit Argentina obviously depends on how much time you have available to travel. Most visitors will arrive in Buenos Aires and begin their trip from there. It seems although many profess wanting to tour Argentina one of the first places they wish to visit is Torres del Paine National Park. There is no question that Torres del Paine is a spectacular park, but the fact is it is in Chile and not Argentina.

Though to fly from Buenos Aires to El Calafate, in the heart of Argentine Patagonia, and overland from there, is geographically straight and shortest way to get to Torres del Paine, the transportation to the park is not exactly overabundant. There is public bus from El Calafate to Puerto Natales and Punta Arenas one can catch and hop off it at the park’s entry, and private transfers are available as well though not plentiful nor cheap.

Hanging glaciers in Torres del Paine

Without a doubt the best access to Torres del Paine is from Punta Arenas, the focal point of Chilean Patagonia. Of course this poses a bit of a dilemma if starting from Buenos Aires. To get to Punta Arenas can be done either by flight via Santiago de Chile or by going to Bariloche in the heart of Argentine Andes first and from there overland across the Andes Lakes District to Puerto Montt and fly to Punta Arenas from there.

If going to Punta Arenas via Santiago may seem like a cumbersome detour, then add a stop and break up the trip by visiting Mendoza first. Mendoza is an easy flight from Buenos Aires and on the way to Santiago. In Mendoza you can tour the best wineries of the region, sample local dishes, lodge at some wonderful hotels, and after three or four days continue on to Santiago.

Another alternative is to forget Torres del Paine altogether, tailor it into your itinerary on a future trip focusing on Chile only, and instead proceed from El Calafate to El Chalten, a base town for treks into the wilds of the incredible Cerro Torre and Mount Fitz Roy. If you may be on a limited time, from El Chalten you can head back to El Calafate and return to Buenos Aires from there. With two weeks to spare you can visit both Fitz Roy and Torres del Paine and you can even add Southern Patagonia, Argentina’s legendary Tierra del Fuego.

Following are the very best three options for experiencing Best of Argentina on 15-days, starting from Buenos Aires.

Option one is to fly from Buenos Aires to El Calafate, overland to El Chaltén, then to Ushuaia and finish with Iguazu Falls. This Best of Argentina itinerary allows for tango in Buenos Aires, seeing the spectacular glaciers, hiking in Fitz Roy National Park, sailing the Beagle Channel, and in the end marvel at the impressive Iguazu Falls.

Another Best of Argentina itinerary on 15 days is a variation of the above with the inclusion of a visit to Mendoza, so in summary the itinerary packs in Tango, Wineries, Glaciers, Tierra del Fuego, Beagle Channel, and Iguazu Falls.

And one more Best of Argentina tour on 15 days can be designed to include Peninsula Valdes, in other words, Buenos Aires, Whales & Penguins, Glaciers, Ushuaia, and Iguazu Falls.

Some would argue I left out Salta and the northwest of Argentina but for logistical reasons best to leave that part for another trip.

Trekking in Torres del Paine

Anyone who has ever ventured along the Indus and the Karakoram Highway, past Chilas, a market town in the shadows of Nanga Parbat and a former staging point for the crossing of the Babusar Pass, had reached the doorstep of the Karakoram. Here passed one of the ancient caravan routes that lead across Hindu Kush and mighty Karakoram, connecting lower Sind and India with Kashgar and Taklamakan Desert, the gateway to China on the legendary Silk Road. The impressive Nanga Parbat marks the westernmost end of the Himalaya. To the north dominate the Karakoram. To enter the real amphitheater of its snow peaks and glaciers one must continue past Gilgit into Skardu and from there to Askole and beyond. It’s then that the sharp, heaven-piercing peaks and oozing glaciers overwhelm, leaving one completely mesmerized.

Askole is the starting point for treks north to the spectacular Baltoro Glacier and the dizzying nest of magnificent giants of the Karakoram – Masherbrum and Gasherbrum, Mustagh Tower, Broad Peak, Hidden Peak, Golden Throne and the spell-binding K2. Mere glance across the skyline of these peaks of 24,000 to nearly 29,000 feet sends chills down one’s spine.

To the west descends the Biafo Glacier, a vast river of ice and rock at whose apex lies the snow-covered basin of Snow Lake. Formed by the confluence of Biafo and Hispar glaciers, into which feed smaller glaciers down side valleys, Snow Lake lies at altitude of over 15,000 feet. To navigate this glacier route is to follow another ancient route of Silk Road, though certainly not one among the easiest, but one that connects the ancient kingdoms of Askole in the East and Nagar in West and the celebrated Shangri-la of Hunza further on. This is a solid two-week trek, three weeks plus as roundtrip from Islamabad, but indeed a trek that you will not soon forget.

The trek that traverses the two glaciers, Biafo and Hispar, from Askole to Nagar valley, covers some 80 miles, much of it on snow and ice. From some 9,000 feet at Askole the trek ascends to Namla nearly at 11,000 feet. In recent years the glacier has receded in the lower reaches and the first part of the trek follows over a river of rocks and boulders. Past Biantha and elevations of some 13,000 feet snow and needing to cross crevasses now dominate the route. The panorama of massive rock towers and pyramids line the passage, more peaks always looming behind, the Baintha Lukper Glacier flows down from the Latok Group and as the glacier broadens one is now firmly in region of eternal snow and ice, with the ice said to have been measured here as nearly a mile thick. Next day it’s over the Hispar Pass of roughly 15,500 feet and from here on its down the Hispar glacier. Though a descent it is the route is not a stroll, traversing lateral moraines and side glaciers of Khanibasa, Yutmaru and Dichiginas, at last, reaching the first settlement, the Hispar Village. From here it’s on to Hunza’s old capital, Karimabad, to sample the local foods and apricot spirits hoping not only to restore strength after a long trek but perhaps also gain an insight into Hunza’s secret of longevity.

It’s been too many years that Pakistan has dropped from our minds as travel destinations, hence it’s time to remind ourselves of the true stunning mountain range that occupies the extreme north of the country – Karakoram – put it on your map, it is truly an exceptional feat of nature and one not to miss! Trekking Biafo and Hispar Glaciers Askole to Nagar in Hunza Valley definitely belongs on a list of the most incredible treks on this Earth!

Departure:  28 May -  15 Nights / 16 Days

Day 01 : Arrive Kathmandu. Transfer to hotel. Evening Detail briefing on Kailash Manasarovar Yatra tour.                                         
Day 02 : Visit Pashupatinath and Boudhanath. PM Free for Kailash tour preparation. We obtain Tibet visa on this day.
Day 03 : Early morning drive from Kathmandu (4500 ft, 1371 mt) to frontier town of Nepal, Kodari.
Day 04 : Rest day at Nyalamu for acclimatization. 
Day 05 : Drive to the first high pass of Lalung La (16665 ft, 5050 mt). Stay at guesthouse. 
Day 06 : Drive to Saga. And drive for another 100 Kms, 62.5 miles and arrive Paryang . Stay at guesthouse. 
Day 07 : From Paryang drive to Mayum river (15280 ft, 4630 mt). Stay at guesthouse.
Day 08 : Puja, Homa, Tarpan etc. and drive to Darchen (15098 ft, 4575 mt), Stay at guesthouse.
Day 09 : Drive to Tarboche (15200 ft, 4606 mt) Camp at Dirapuk. Overnight in tent.
Day 10 : Climb through Guari Kunda Lake. Stay at tented camp.
Day 11 : A short trek will lead you to the pickup point from where you will continue by vehicle. Stay at tented camp.
Day 12 : Today you will drive from Manasarovar to Paryang. Stay at Guesthouse. 
Day 13 : Continue driving through the Tibetan countryside to Saga via Tsongpa. Stay at Guesthouse.
Day 14 : Drive to Nyalamu via Peigutso once again. Stay at Guesthouse.
Day 15 : Drive from Nyalamu to Kathmandu via Zhangmu. Stay at Hotel in Kathmandu .
Day 16 : Transfer to Kathmandu Airport for your departure flight to next destination.

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