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This post is a continuation of my earlier posts on other ethnic groups found along the Arun River in Eastern Nepal, namely Rais and Lhomi Tibetans, a great trekking destination that most trekkers to Nepal overlook.

The way of life in the Himalaya is determined by the Himalayan topography, altitude, and climate, factors which quite substantially differ from region to region, plus, naturally, by the cultural diversity of the individual ethnic groups. Closer look at the variety of ethnic groups that populate this impressive mountain range reveals fascinating mix of architectural house styles.

In terms of settlement characteristics, each of the Himalayan racial groups prefers its own altitude and peculiar habitat. No other part of the Himalayas is as rich in house design styles as the Nepal Himalaya. Most of the Nepal Midlands, the principal settlement belt between the High Himalaya to the north and the Mahabharat range, or the front range, to the south, have been settled by the Ancient Nepalese races. Their villages range from the low river valley floors of some 2,500 feet above seas level up to 8,000 feet in elevation, above which only seldom even today they can be found. Of the seven major population groups belonging into this ethnic entity, Limbus, who have settled in far eastern Nepal, build one of the more remarkable house types.

Covered by lush monsoonal forests, the ridge of the Mahabharat range in the eastern Nepal separates the fertile lowland of Terai from “Limbuwan”, the Land of the Limbus. Poetically sited below steep hillsides of the Mahabharat Lekh or dotting the rolling land of the eastern Nepal Midlands, the dispersed villages of the Limbus are found between altitudes of 2,500 to 5,000 feet above sea level.  Traditionally also referred to by the Limbus themselves as the “Pallo-Kirant” or “Far-Kirant”, this region includes an area east of the Arun river and west of the Nepal-India border.

Sited conventionally amid dry cultivated fields, the yards of the Limbu houses may often be beautified by planted beds of colorful flowers. The houses are built of stone, mud packed, and characteristically washed with white and ochre mud. Typically, each Limbu house has the same type of front elevation.  It is entered via a small porch, constructed like the balcony above it out of timber or bamboo.  Designed with a small window above the balcony, the roof is of a gable type.  Although in most instances the houses are roofed with thatch, the most prominent of the Limbus cover their houses with sun-baked shingles.  For the most part, there is not much variation in the design, although here and there one may come across interesting horn-like tiles extending upwards from the ends of the gable triangle, a feature reminiscent of the Far Eastern architecture.

The main living and sleeping area, including the kitchen hearth, is on the ground floor.  Grain, seeds, tools, and different sorts of family valuables are ordinarily stored on the second floor. Cattle is kept in shelters built in the vicinity of the house. 

If you’ve got the time and would prefer a trekking route to Namche Bazaar and the Sherpa regions below Mount Everest that is less traveled, start your trek in Eastern Nepal, from Dhankuta or Ilam. This is certainly a great alternative approach route to Namche than the one from Jiri, which sees lots of trekkers especially in October and November. One way or another trekking from Eastern Nepal to Solu-Khumbu offers a more complete experience of Nepal than a direct flight to Lukla from Kathmandu.

Trekking in Eastern Nepal Himalayas is once again possible and trekking into the upper reaches of the Arun River offers an insight into the lifestyle of the Lhomi Bhote, the Tibetan population group that occupies this remote part of eastern Nepal. The diversity of house types built by the Tibetan population groups in the Nepal Himalaya from one area to the next is quite fascinating. The Lhomi Bhote, whose villages are found as far north as where Arun breaches the high Himalayan massif, build themselves houses that range from all bamboo and bamboo matting type of structures elevated on stilts of tree trunks or stones, to all stone houses with wooden shingles, or even houses of solid timber.

The Arun River, one of the greatest Himalayan Rivers, originating in Tibet, breaks through the high Himalayan range at an altitude of only little more than 4,000 feet above sea level.  High above its deep gorge, affected significantly by monsoonal rains, are situated the villages of the Lhomi Tibetans. The Lhomi villages are compact settlements, sited on broad ledges or on steep slopes.

The houses in the villages built in the lowest elevations, around 5,200 feet above sea level, are constructed on stone stilts or on all-stone foundations. The walls are made of stone or quite often of woven bamboo, which is also used exclusively in the covering of the roofs.

In higher elevations, stone begins to predominate in the house architecture. In the highest situated Lhomi villages, in altitude over 8,000 feet, however, timber now appears, and at times solid timber houses erected on stone stilts may be found.  Bamboo, which is cut in typical stalks that are split into thin strips then woven into mats, continues to be utilized in the coverage of the roofs.  

The Lhomis believe their ancestors came from Tibet.  Actually, Lhomi is not a tribal name, but a Tibetan expression for “lowlanders”, a name which the people apply to themselves in view of the fact that the region of their present habitat is located to the south of Tibet proper.  More correctly, the Lhomis of the upper Arun are known as the Kar Bhote.

They are self-sufficient farmers with trade playing only a minor role in their lives.  The style of their dress is similar to other Tibetan population groups living in the Nepal Himalaya, although the generally warmer climate of their native region enables them to go barefoot for the greater part of the year.

In addition to wearing unique small cloth caps embellished with Indian silver coins, the Lhomi women, as most Tibetan women like to adorn themselves with silver ornaments and necklaces of coral, amber and turquoise beads.

The Lhomis still claim to be of the Buddhist religion, however, their monasteries are in a tragic state of disrepair, Buddhist Lamas are few, and the contact with Tibet, the source of their religion, has been broken since its 1959 takeover by the Chinese. Well rooted in their religious practice are elements of a pagan form of a pre-Buddhist religion, which includes animal sacrifices, and worship of spirits and patron deities. Nevertheless, nearly every village harbors several chortens, Buddhist stupas, and mani walls which bear testimony to this region once being a place where Buddhism flourished.

By the way, when in this region, consider adding a trek to Makalu base camp and the beyul valley of Barun river.

Trekking in Eastern Nepal along the Arun River valley one can admire fascinating changes in house architecture as one progresses from the lower Himalaya toward the elevations where Arun breaches the High Himalaya on its way from Tibet to Nepal.  One of the dominant Ancient Nepalese ethnic groups that populate the Nepal Midlands in this region are the Rais. Generally, the Rais have settled west of the Arun River in altitudes between 4,300 and 7,400 feet above sea level, however, their settlements can be found also on or very near the bottom of the Arun gorge, in altitudes even less than 1,000 feet. Here the Rai houses are constructed on stilts and woven out of bamboo and reed. In some instances the Rai settlements can be quite compact, with the porches of the neighboring houses practically touching and narrow passages lead between the houses, but for the most part, Rai low river valley villages are dispersed. Packed with mud like the entire house floor, including the front elevation of the house, the porch is a viable work area. As the structures are only one story high, storage is partially provided on the outside of the house. Cattle and other livestock are typically kept below the house. A special thrashing and milling area is built usually in close vicinity of the house.

Another house type is built by the Rais higher on the west bank of the Arun, in a region immediately south of the Lhomi Tibetans, but even here the altitude where they settle does not exceed 5,000 feet above sea level. Although bamboo is still used abundantly, particularly in the construction of the animal shelters, the important building material is stone.

The facades of the houses are frequently richly decorated with geometric ornaments and “flowers of luck” designs, and images of gods as expression of worship to reward the house with prosperity.

Some of the houses have adjacent to them fine fenced vegetable gardens. Typically the houses are roofed with thatch, although bamboo mats may occasionally be used. In villages above 6,000 feet, as is the case on the northern side of the Salfa Phedi pass, separating the watershed of the Arun from that of the Dudh Kosi, the roofs of the Rai houses are covered with wooden shingles.

During the civil war in Nepal, a conflict between government forces and Maoist insurgents, which lasted ten years and finally ended with peace agreement in 2006, it was virtually impossible to travel in Eastern Nepal as this area was controlled by a number of bandit groups many of which posed as Maoist rebels but were most set on ambush and armed robbery than selling communist ideology and collecting rebel-sanctioned donations prevalent at that time. Today once again this region is open and may be used as a lesser frequented route to access the Sherpa region of Solu-Khumbu to the north-west from here.

Following are low-cost Nepal Himalaya trekking packages with pricing guaranteed to save you money in the current global financial crisis. There is 2-pax minimum and the low cost offers are valid only until end of June 2009.

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Annapurna Circuit Trek

The Annapurna Circuit is the popular name for a 300-kilometer trek in Nepal around the Annapurna mountain range. The trek reaches an altitude of 5416 meters at Thorong La Pass and touches the edge of the fabled Tibetan plateau.
Duration: 18 Days; cost: from $1239 / person

Ghorepani – Poonhill Trek

A popular short trek passing through Gurung and Magar village’s menders up following the trails used by local people and traders. From Ghorepani at 2800m. you have a spectacular panoramic view of Dhaulagiri and the Annapurnas.
Duration: 11 Days; cost: from $791 / person

Langtang Valley Trek

This trek takes us into some of the wildest and most scenic areas of Nepal. From the fertile rice basins of River Trisuli, to the great stands of Rhododendron and conifer on the higher slopes, and finally the high alpine Yak pastures.
Duration: 12 Days; cost: from $1088 / person

Everest Base Camp Trek

This trek begins with 35 minutes breathtaking flight to Lukla at 2800 meters above sea level. The classic Everest Base Camp trail passes through the picturesque Sherpa village of Namche Bazaar to Gorakshep.
Duration: 19 Days; cost: from $1309 / person

Mustang – The Hidden Kingdom Trek

Upper Mustang trekking begins with a morning flight to Jomsom, the district headquarters of Mustang. After some short preparation we trek up the windy Kali Gandaki valley to Kagbeni, and from there on towards the former Kingdom of Mustang.
Duration: 17 Days; cost: from $2929 / person

Island Peak Summit Trek

Imja Tse, or popularly known as Island Peak, is the most popular trekking peak in Nepal. Seen as an island in a sea of ice from Dingboche, the summit has an attractive and highly glaciated west face rising from the Lhotse Glacier.
Duration: 24 Days; cost: from $2899 / person