India
Varanasi Ghats
by TomBel on Nov.03, 2010, under India, temples & monasteries
Every year tens of thousands of pilgrims visit one of the 2,000-odd temples along the banks of the Ganges at Varanasi and bathe in the river. One of the seven sacred Hindu pilgrim sites in India, Varanasi is also one of the world’s oldest cities, where Lord Shiva is said to have made his home since the dawn of creation. Mentioned both in the Ramayana and the Mahabharata, Varanasi is to many the religious capital of India.
Varanasi takes its name from its location between the Varuna and Asi rivers which join the Ganges as it makes a broad curve north. The Hindus call the city Kashi, the city of light-after the golden luminescence of the temples, ghats and ashrams in the early morning. The name Benares was used by the British, and before them the Mughals called the town Muhammadabad for a short time. To this day Varanasi is a center of learning, especially for Sanskrit scholars.
Varanasi tour is one of the most popular tourist destinations in India, and is thus frequently mobbed by long weekends of explorers making their way to learn more about one of the India’s sites of cultural interest. Tourists visiting Varanasi also make a trip to places like Bodh Gaya (Lord Buddha received enlighten here), Taj Mahal, Sarnath and even Sikkim. Students of History too have also been known to frequent Varanasi as they attempt to widen their scope of learning. There are those who come to this holy city to participate in spiritually enriching activities, like the yoga and meditation, Hindu ceremonies and pujas, including cremation on the Ghats and visiting some of the other sacred places in and around the city.
The locals of India have grown to develop their lives along the ways of the Varanasi. It is advisable to try and travel around the Varanasi Ghats individually so as to learn your way around them. The Ghats are surrounded by some great hotels, restaurants, cafes, book and music cafes where you can take a rest, or interact with the locals. Just close by there are stalls where you can buy colorful accessories like chains, religious stones, idols and books. One of the things you cannot afford to miss while in India is a boat ride across the River Ganga. It usually takes around one hour, and is an out-of-the-world experience, especially during the morning hours. You can also take a stroll along Ghats of Varanasi, and witness the Hindu enthusiasts taking their holy bath in the river, while offering water to the Sun god, Surya.
Kumbh Mela 2010 at Haridwar, India
by tb on Dec.05, 2009, under India, Journeys of a Lifetime, unique festivals
Known as the largest religious gathering of mankind, the Kumbh Mela refers to a great gathering of Hindu pilgrims at auspicious locations. It takes place four times every twelve years, thus every three years, and rotates among four locations.
The most auspicious of these is Allahabad, known as the Prayag, the legendary confluence of the mighty Ganga, its tributary Yamuna and the mythical Saraswati River of the Hindu scriptures. At the Prayag occurs every 12 years the Maha Kumbh Mela, or the Great Kumbh Mela, next being in 2013. It is also at Allahabad that the greatest of the Maha Kumbh Melas is staged every 144 years, as the cycle of 12 Purna Kumbh Melas has been completed.
The last time the Maha Kumbha Mela had taken place was in 2001, when the most auspicious dates signified an exceptionally potent planetary equation of cosmic energy and the count of those in attendance had been given between 80 to as much as 100 million people.
Haridwar, a town on the Ganges river in northern India, Ujjain on the Kshipra River and Nashik on the Godavari River are the other three Kumbh Mela sites. The next Kumbh Mela, following 2004 Ardha Kumbha Mela, half-Kumbh mela, occurring every six years, is once again in Haridwar, the previous of which was in 1998.
Located at the foothills of the Shivalik Range, the front range of the Himalayas, Haridwar is one of the most sacred cities of India. Its religious significance stems from its prominent location where the glacier waters of sacred Ganga reach the plains after having tumbled down the course from the Adobe of Snow. It is for the very essence of constituting a gateway to the Himalaya that Haridwar carries its name, the Dwar of Har or Gateway to God, with its bathing ghat as the ultimate site, the awe inspiring Har-ki-pauri, or Lord Shiva’s Steps, from which pilgrims and holy men alike dip into the freezing waters of the Ganga.
Dates of the Haridwar Kumbh Mela are given as starting from January 14 and lasting until April 28, 2010. In reality the dates of the mela are not arbitrarily set but the starting date of the Kumbha Mela is associated with the astrological alignment of relevant planetary bodies, specifically when the Sun enters Capricorn. By this auspicious date, January 14, 2010, millions of pilgrims are expected to be present already. The date also corresponds with the celebrations of the Makara Samkranti festival throughout India. At the Kumbh Mela the date marks Makar Sankranti Snan, or the date of the First Snan, the First Holy Bath, when countless pilgrims submerge in the Ganga. From this date onwards until April 14, when the most sacred bathing day takes place on full moon day, the Shakh Purnima Snan, and the pilgrims celebrate Buddha’s birth, enlightenment and death, a day when all sins are washed away and the soul enters into union with the One, the Oneness of the Universe, the God Almighty. Between these two most auspicious dates, nine other important bathing dates take place.
For the simple reason of just attending the mela pilgrims believe to be honored with the utmost in blessings, not to mention those of the darshan, the blessings bestowed by the revered sadhus and other holy men, many of whom descend from the High Himalayas and remote caves, interrupting their years-long seclusions in meditation to bath in the Ganga and to appear among the mortals. For it is at the Maha Kumbh Mela to bath in the Ganga River is to taste amrit kalash, the nectar of immortality, and to embark on the ultimate in destiny with chance of ceasing the cycle of birth and rebirth and becoming One with God.
Throughout these three months the site of the Haridwar Kubh Mela becomes a photographer’s paradise. The Kumbh Mela is rendered an exceptional event not only for its spiritual significance and the sheer phenomenal number of mankind gathered but for the astounding myriad of gathered holy men, the sadhus, yogis and saints, that arrive from all corners of India and create an unbelievable spectacle especially bewitching for the Western mind.
The radiant ambiance of all imaginable colors and sounds of horns, trumpets, conchels and drums, shouts and mantras, these spectacles are as nourishing for the soul as they are for the mundane mind wishing just to take pleasure in observing the holy bathing rituals, watching the naked ash-smeared sadhus perform stunning feats of mind and body control, while engulfed in the endless gathering of humanity as well as members of animal kingdom, from monkeys to camels, elephants to beasts of burden, pulling chariots of saints and pilgrims too old to walk but having arrived to partake in the powerful energy, the shakti released by the saints, prophets or devotees alike, rendering the gathering the powerful nourishment that it is and has been for millennia.
Needless to say, if you are to come to the Kumbha Mela as visitor rather than a pilgrim, to find and be at certain sacred spots and witness memorable events throughout this enormous gathering you best know how to find your way around. To make the best of your journey you need a private guide – settle for no less than having someone who truly knows to guide you!
To make your trip to Haridwar Kumbha Mela complete, and to experience more of the unique that India has to offer, having a custom luxury tour of India designed to your specifications is your ideal approach to private independent travel in India.
Railway journeys into India
by tb on Oct.19, 2009, under China, headline news, Himalayas, India, Journeys of a Lifetime, Karakoram, Nepal, Pakistan, rail travel, railway journeys, Tibet, Yunnan
Under the British Raj you could had ridden a train into India from Lahore in present day Pakistan. Since India’s independence you have to walk across the Wagha border between Pakistan and India, take bus to Amritsar and ride all over India from there. But now, Indian Railways has announced that it plans to establish rail links with Nepal, Bhutan and apparently concrete plans have been also drawn to connect the Indian rail network all the way with the Chinese railways.
With trade and tourism having reached large scale proportions in Kunming and Yunnan province of south-western China, the Chinese have already connected its rail system with that of Myanmar and plans are underway to extend it from there to Bangladesh with Dhaka being only a step from Kolkata, the eastern gateway to India. Once the network is fully in place and operational you’ll be able to tour Assam and Meghalaya from Kolkata and continue all the way to tour Yunnan in China.
With now being able to ride the iron rooster across China to Lhasa in Tibet, Chinese already started on extending the line across the High Himalaya down to Kathmandu in Nepal. Thus obviously after China you’ll be able to tour Nepal and then hop on a train and ride down into the plains of India. Of course this line will cost pretty penny as the road down from Kathmandu to Indian border is not an easy ride but the Chinese engineers have already blasted their way through much worse in Sichuan.
The third route in the works is to link southern Xinjiang Province of Western China with Pakistan. There is indeed another major obstacle in the way there and that’s the Karakoram. But never mind, just imagine, you could ride a train along the legendary Silk Road from Beijing via Kashgar over Kunjerab Pass, and along Karakoram Highway all the way to Deli and Mumbai!
Few years ago this Italian tourist asked me if I could arrange for her to take a taxi from Kathmandu to Mount Everest Base Camp! Now I wonder how soon will this really become possible.
Visit Bhubaneswar, Puri and Konark, the holiest temples in Orissa
by tb on Sep.28, 2009, under art & architecture, India, Orissa
Most tourists wanting to see India visit Rajasthan and then perhaps Goa and highlights of Kerala. Very few ever tour Orissa and visit Bhubaneswar and Puri. Yet these two cities on the eastern coast of India offer some of the most striking temples and can be used as staging points for tours into the interior of tribal Orissa.
Bhubaneswar, the capital city of ancient kingdom of Kalinga, is known as the Temple City of India. Among the finest and also the biggest of Bhubaneswar’s 600 temples is the Lingaraj Temple of Shiva built in the 11th century.
Best visited from Kolkata, start your tour of Bhubaneswar with the Mukteswara temple. Built in the 10th century, Mukteswara temple is known for its richly decorated stone arch at the entrance. With the tales from the Panchatantra carved on it, the temple is a magnificent example of classical architecture of Orissa.
The Rajarani temple, set in picturesque surroundings, is noted for its intricate carvings of floral, animal and human figures. Built in the 11th century it has no deity.
Parasurameswara temple is small but richly decorated shrine of Shiva built in the 7th century. It is one of the best preserved and is embellished with sculptures featuring amorous couples, animals and floral motifs.
Last, do not forget to see the the Vital Deul-tantric temple located near Linagaraj Temple.
After touring Bhubaneswar continue to Puri. Puri is another major pilgrimage centre in India. Puri was established as one of the four cardinal institutions, shakti peethas, holy places of cosmic power, by Adi Shankara. Also known for its Golden Beach the fame of Puri emanates mostly from its Jagannath Temple. The 12th century temple is known for its annual Car Festival.
From Puri continue to the legendary Konarak temple. The temple chariot of the Sun God on the coastal sands of Bay of Bengal is a 13th century architectural marvel. It is designed as a celestial chariot of Sun God, complete with twelve pairs of wheels and seven horses. This striking temple has sculptures of great beauty covering all aspects of life, but it is most famous for its erotic art.
While in Puri, also visit the Raghurajpur village to have a look at the Patachitra painting, an art form akin to Batik.
Every year in July, the sacred coastal town of Puri celebrates the Rath Yatra of Lord Jagannath The entire Ratha Yatra is a symbolic humanization of God.






